Catch Me if You Can in Ketchikan

The last port of call on our Alaska cruise is Ketchikan.

It's a very active dock and I just hope our captain can find a parking space.

Our first look at Ketchikan shows it huddling at the foot of a mountain, shivering under low-lying clouds.  The town spreads uphill through winding streets, making it a bit of a hike from the boat to get out and discover all that little town might have to offer...

such as a good bar, perhaps?

The sign suggests we "watch the lines in comfort".  I suppose they're referring to the cruise lines coming in to dock, but perhaps there's a run (pardon the pun) on their washrooms.

If you feel like jumping ship and starting your life all over again, there's at least one promising property with plenty of potential that could be purchased in this bustling town.

 I was very intrigued by Ketchikan, but the rains came down in buckets and I was forced to find my way back to the ship without having had the opportunity to venture very far into those winding streets.

It was really the one regret of my trip as this town seemed to be the most "authentic" of those we visited in that it was clearly not designed chiefly for the shopping pleasure of tourists.

Here you can get an idea of the torrents of rain, accumulating as a small lake in the parking lot where a *Sourdough* cab awaits passengers.

(*Sourdough (slang)  An old-timer, especially in Alaska. From the distinctive pouches of bread starter worn on a belt or around the neck by experienced prospectors during the Klondike Gold Rush.*

thanks Wikipedia)

Passengers hasten back 

to the dry sheltering warmth of their boats.

As we pull out of Ketchikan we get another glimpse of the town, looking like a soft pastel drawing 

through the rain dotted window.

Feeling a little peaked

Truly, viewing the glaciers in Alaska was a peak experience.

There were a few ice-sculptures on board the cruise ship, but nothing of this magnitude!

The ice forms look like giant gems.

Even though they're stunning in their natural beauty,

I couldn't resist "enhancing" them a little in Photoshop for emphasis.

It's fascinating that the ice exists right next to a patch of green still lingering on the lower mountain slope.

This bottom layers of the glacier, with their reflection in the calm water below,

suggest the stylized eye of a killer whale, such as seen in Native carvings.

Pulling away for a wider view, we see that the form really does resemble an Orca...

or is it just me who thinks this?

It was a rare privilege to have seen this amazing natural phenomenon.

An experience I will always cherish.

Good Glacious!

I promised you glaciers.

Here is the first glacial glimpse.

And here is a closer look.

The ice marches relentlessly over the still mountains,

creating wonders in form, line and colour.

The ice crystals form their own fearsome sculptures.

But this is just the tip of the iceberg, so to speak.  

We viewed two ice fields on the Alaskan cruise into Glacier Bay.  I don't want to overwhelm you so I'll save further views for my next post.

Meanwhile, breathe deeply and listen to the silence.

(And pass your hip flask, please.)

Glacier Bay

We are sailing into Alaska's Glacier Bay.

For me, Glacier Bay was the highlight of the cruise.

Such stillness here (other than the broadcast explanations of the local park ranger who has come on board to tell us about the formations of Glacier Bay, and many scientific details, of which I remember none).

As we get closer to the glaciers, bits of floating ice 

dot the water,

patches of snow become evident,

and a small dark shape on a floating piece of ice reveals itself to be a seal, watching us watching him.

It's snowing on the mountain tops but we're lucky today to have such good visibility.  The captain said that the previous week the scenery was completely hidden by fog.

A small waterfall in the lower region of the mountain
dives into its own reflection.

The lower slopes are still covered with green, reminding us that less than a century ago, this area was a rich and welcoming homeland, full of natural resources, for the native Tlingit people, until they were pushed further afield by the encroaching glaciers.

Clouds creep down the mountains to soften the appearance of the sharp edged-ridges.

Peace.  Silence.  Awe.

We can only look on in amazement as we approach the glaciers.

Crew members are passing out small bowls of thick, hot,
pea soup to warm us on our approach to the ice fields.

Be sure to get a bowl before we continue on.

One last look at Skagway

It's time to hustle back to the cruise ship as departure time is nearly upon us.

As we hurry past, a brash young temptress calls to us from an upstairs window of the town brothel  hotel.

Actually, this sweet young thing is probably earning money for college with a summer theatre job.  Actors roam the street between showings, staying in character and trying to drum up business for the play.

One last quick dash down a side street stops me in my tracks in front of this antique store window, combining a fascinating time-warping view of the past with the present.

(as well as providing a contribution to 

James' Weekend Reflections )

I wonder if that old license plate we saw in the window has travelled any of the roads leading to places suggested on this signpost...

if there are roads leading there. 

(note to self: must look at a road map of Alaska)

I think this rusted handle, beautifully showcased on an even rustier door, would make a fine addition to the collection in that antique shop.

All that sight-seeing has made me hungry.  What say we stop in the ship's Lido Restaurant for a little snack before supper?  For entertainment, we can watch a crew member wash the windows in the rain.

One last look at the fresh snow on the mountains above the rain-soaked deck as we say so long to Skagway.  

More mountains to come.  

Be sure to bundle up for our next stop, 

that's all I'm saying.

The Most Photographed Building in Alaska

I didn't know it at the time, but this unusual structure, with a facade of 8800 pieces of driftwood, is reputedly the most photographed building in Alaska.  

It is Camp No.1 of the Arctic Brotherhood.

It sits on a corner of Skagway's main street, Broadway, which is, as one might expect, bustling with tourists.

See what I mean?

But what caught my interest, as I was snapping photos like the rest of the tourist hordes, was a couple perched in front of the building, sitting there like stoic guardians at the gate.

They were there the entire time of my visit, just watching the passing ebb and flow of cruisers.

In spite of the fact that they're clutching souvenir tote bags from a cruise ship line themselves, it's my belief that they're a native couple who live in the area and enjoy watching the tourists as a form of entertainment.  At least the lady looks relatively entertained; I'm not so sure about her friend.

I wonder if they're the most photographed couple in Alaska.

Or if anyone else even noticed them.
***

Postscript FYI:

The facade was nailed together in 1900 by lodge members and is a prime example of Victorian Rustic Architecture.  It underwent a restoration in the winter of 2004-2005 where all 8883 pieces of driftwood were removed.  Forty percent had rotted and were replaced while the remaining 60% were nailed back on.

Remember Where We Parked!

Not too hard to remember where our boat is anchored today,

at the foot of bustling downtown Skagway.

But be careful not to get caught in a time warp here as we prepare to take a tour of the town.

Should we go by train?

Or take in "all points of interest" 

on the Alaska street car tour?

Perhaps a horse-drawn carriage is more to your liking?

Ah, here we go; just the ticket!  

Tour will be getting underway soon.