Catch Me if You Can in Ketchikan

The last port of call on our Alaska cruise is Ketchikan.

It's a very active dock and I just hope our captain can find a parking space.

Our first look at Ketchikan shows it huddling at the foot of a mountain, shivering under low-lying clouds.  The town spreads uphill through winding streets, making it a bit of a hike from the boat to get out and discover all that little town might have to offer...

such as a good bar, perhaps?

The sign suggests we "watch the lines in comfort".  I suppose they're referring to the cruise lines coming in to dock, but perhaps there's a run (pardon the pun) on their washrooms.

If you feel like jumping ship and starting your life all over again, there's at least one promising property with plenty of potential that could be purchased in this bustling town.

 I was very intrigued by Ketchikan, but the rains came down in buckets and I was forced to find my way back to the ship without having had the opportunity to venture very far into those winding streets.

It was really the one regret of my trip as this town seemed to be the most "authentic" of those we visited in that it was clearly not designed chiefly for the shopping pleasure of tourists.

Here you can get an idea of the torrents of rain, accumulating as a small lake in the parking lot where a *Sourdough* cab awaits passengers.

(*Sourdough (slang)  An old-timer, especially in Alaska. From the distinctive pouches of bread starter worn on a belt or around the neck by experienced prospectors during the Klondike Gold Rush.*

thanks Wikipedia)

Passengers hasten back 

to the dry sheltering warmth of their boats.

As we pull out of Ketchikan we get another glimpse of the town, looking like a soft pastel drawing 

through the rain dotted window.

Feeling a little peaked

Truly, viewing the glaciers in Alaska was a peak experience.

There were a few ice-sculptures on board the cruise ship, but nothing of this magnitude!

The ice forms look like giant gems.

Even though they're stunning in their natural beauty,

I couldn't resist "enhancing" them a little in Photoshop for emphasis.

It's fascinating that the ice exists right next to a patch of green still lingering on the lower mountain slope.

This bottom layers of the glacier, with their reflection in the calm water below,

suggest the stylized eye of a killer whale, such as seen in Native carvings.

Pulling away for a wider view, we see that the form really does resemble an Orca...

or is it just me who thinks this?

It was a rare privilege to have seen this amazing natural phenomenon.

An experience I will always cherish.

Good Glacious!

I promised you glaciers.

Here is the first glacial glimpse.

And here is a closer look.

The ice marches relentlessly over the still mountains,

creating wonders in form, line and colour.

The ice crystals form their own fearsome sculptures.

But this is just the tip of the iceberg, so to speak.  

We viewed two ice fields on the Alaskan cruise into Glacier Bay.  I don't want to overwhelm you so I'll save further views for my next post.

Meanwhile, breathe deeply and listen to the silence.

(And pass your hip flask, please.)

Glacier Bay

We are sailing into Alaska's Glacier Bay.

For me, Glacier Bay was the highlight of the cruise.

Such stillness here (other than the broadcast explanations of the local park ranger who has come on board to tell us about the formations of Glacier Bay, and many scientific details, of which I remember none).

As we get closer to the glaciers, bits of floating ice 

dot the water,

patches of snow become evident,

and a small dark shape on a floating piece of ice reveals itself to be a seal, watching us watching him.

It's snowing on the mountain tops but we're lucky today to have such good visibility.  The captain said that the previous week the scenery was completely hidden by fog.

A small waterfall in the lower region of the mountain
dives into its own reflection.

The lower slopes are still covered with green, reminding us that less than a century ago, this area was a rich and welcoming homeland, full of natural resources, for the native Tlingit people, until they were pushed further afield by the encroaching glaciers.

Clouds creep down the mountains to soften the appearance of the sharp edged-ridges.

Peace.  Silence.  Awe.

We can only look on in amazement as we approach the glaciers.

Crew members are passing out small bowls of thick, hot,
pea soup to warm us on our approach to the ice fields.

Be sure to get a bowl before we continue on.

One last look at Skagway

It's time to hustle back to the cruise ship as departure time is nearly upon us.

As we hurry past, a brash young temptress calls to us from an upstairs window of the town brothel  hotel.

Actually, this sweet young thing is probably earning money for college with a summer theatre job.  Actors roam the street between showings, staying in character and trying to drum up business for the play.

One last quick dash down a side street stops me in my tracks in front of this antique store window, combining a fascinating time-warping view of the past with the present.

(as well as providing a contribution to 

James' Weekend Reflections )

I wonder if that old license plate we saw in the window has travelled any of the roads leading to places suggested on this signpost...

if there are roads leading there. 

(note to self: must look at a road map of Alaska)

I think this rusted handle, beautifully showcased on an even rustier door, would make a fine addition to the collection in that antique shop.

All that sight-seeing has made me hungry.  What say we stop in the ship's Lido Restaurant for a little snack before supper?  For entertainment, we can watch a crew member wash the windows in the rain.

One last look at the fresh snow on the mountains above the rain-soaked deck as we say so long to Skagway.  

More mountains to come.  

Be sure to bundle up for our next stop, 

that's all I'm saying.

Skagway Segue

Sorry that we got a little derailed on our Skagway tour.  Shall we pick up where we left off?

I started wandering along this path, wanting to follow the rail line, hoping to find the miners' cemetery, but it was a little bit uncomfortable, wandering on my own.

 A big bad wolf could well be lurking;

though this poor fellow was hanging out in a storefront window

being gawked at by passing tourists.  

It's not just our friend Wolfgang who has given up the ghost, 

Skagway's Golden North Hotel is reputedly haunted by two ghosts of its own!

The richer folk of the gold mining era could afford a few nights at the hotel, stopping for a drink at the bar, while those still struggling to make their fortunes would have been happy to call a little log cabin home.  

The native influence can be found slyly referenced outside contemporary shops, 

though this cigar store Indian has a dubious place of origin (perhaps in a white man's imagination?)

The Russian influence in Skagway is reflected in a few
onion dome-topped buildings.

Wandering off the main streets to explore a side-alley yields not only a good view of the looming mountains but a surprising splash of colour.

A few small vestiges of summer blooms linger along the walkways of these unusual Skagway dwellings.

These old sheds look like they're still in pretty good shape.

Surprising that some entrepreneur hasn't transformed them into a bowling alley.

Is it just me, or is the door to this building just a tad incongruous?

And just what is that pile of massive rocks for?  

I guess I should have signed up for the tour, though I doubt it would have taken in these

particular places of interest.

Evidently, the side streets are not holding out much interest to the tourists.

This charming little boutique is for rent.  Anyone interested in opening up shop in Skagway?